Rapaport Magazine
Style & Design

Designer: Going with the flow

Mike Saatji, designer of Mike Joseph Jewellery, talks about growing up in the trade, staying flexible and learning from the past.

By Sonia Esther Soltani


Coming from a family tradition of jewelers, what did you learn from an early age about making jewelry?

I literally grew up at our family jewelry store. I began learning the business, and I went from sweeping the atelier floors and cleaning glass showcases, to working on the bench and setting stones, to starting my own manufacturing company. What I learned throughout the years was that when it comes to jewelry, even the smallest detail is very relevant, and establishing trust with quality work is paramount to success.

How did you develop your signature style?
I design what I love, not what everyone else is doing. At the very beginning, I made a conscious decision to create a collection that reflects my style. I love fluidity, easy movement, flexibility. My jewelry is a representation of my own lifestyle, what I truly believe — being unique, standing out and setting trends.

What are your main sources of inspiration?
I look for inspirations in my surroundings, and what’s missing rather than what’s available online and [in] what everyone else is offering. My main reference is always architectural. The problem-solving and engineering involved with each piece is a challenge, but very rewarding. I throw a bunch of ideas on a table and decide what my next collection will look like. My goal is always creating fashionably timeless jewelry.

How do you source your diamonds?
We have our own manufacturing company, and we do everything in-house, which gives us great control over the quality of each piece. Our diamond suppliers are members of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), and we’ve been working with them over a decade. We know the suppliers personally and the high standard of work-environment ethics they follow.

How do you work with diamonds?
I mostly work with white diamonds, and I specifically love rose-cut. I try to implement rose cuts as much as possible in all my designs. Also, when doing a collection with rose gold, I love complementing it with light brown (champagne) diamonds.

How would you define the Mike Joseph woman?
I would say she is fierce, strong, open-minded, she doesn’t allow anyone to put limitations on her; compassionate, powerful, determined and feminine.

Can you tell us more about your latest collection?
With our new collection, Amante, I wanted to stay true to our signature chains and dotted diamonds, creating a strong yet minimal aesthetic, so it’s a different angle on a past theme. I always look into the past when creating new, [at] the mistakes we made and issues we faced, and try to correct them. It’s always improving going forward.

You don’t really design bridal rings. Is that deliberate, or are you only interested in the more modern, edgy bride-to-be?
You are correct, I haven’t designed bridal rings yet, but it is always in the back of my mind. For now, I like to focus on creating and designing my biannual collections. But who knows, in the near future, anything is possible.

What’s your most cherished personal item of jewelry?
I am not a sentimental person; I love living in the moment. My jewelry box changes every few years…so [it’s] always fresh and up to date.

Image: Mike Joseph Jewellery - Waterfall choker with signature Mike Joseph flexible wrap-around, featuring over 6 carats of diamonds; Bubbles choker in rose and black gold with white diamonds. mikejosephjewellery.com 

Article from the Rapaport Magazine - September 2018. To subscribe click here.

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