Colored-gemstone engagement rings are a refreshing change from the usual diamond-focused variety, but are they a strong trend? Although there are signs of interest, diamonds remain the preferred gem for engagement rings, and while suppliers and manufacturers gush over color for bridal, retailers say it’s still a novelty.
“We’re not seeing an uptick in color for bridal,” says Jonathan Zadok of Zadok Jewelers in Houston, Texas. “It’s less than 2% of our business. We have a lot of beautiful color, but it’s mostly right-hand rings.”
Other retailers echo this sentiment. David Kirk, sales manager of McCaskill & Co. Jewelers in Destin, Florida, says he would love it if color bridal became more popular, but he doesn’t get many requests. One exception, he recalls, was a bride who wanted something different, and he suggested a green tourmaline to match the unusual color of her eyes. Likewise, Denise Richards of Florida jeweler Underwood’s says her market is conservative — though, again, there are exceptions. She has sold a lot of sapphires, including trapiche ones, for engagement rings.
Craig Rottenberg, president of Long’s Jewelers in Boston, Massachusetts, notes “a very small uptick” in requests for colored engagement rings, including morganite, but says color for bridal “is a very small part of the business.”
Customizable charm When it comes to the nuptial category, color’s strength may be its weakness. It makes a bold fashion statement, but unlike a diamond, it doesn’t match every outfit. Also, brides want it to be obvious that they’re engaged or married, and a diamond ring clearly communicates that.
Nonetheless, millennials are beginning to move the needle toward color — partly for cost reasons (they’d rather save for a house), but also for style reasons (they want something off the beaten track). For them, less-expensive gems like aquamarine or morganite are an exciting alternative.
“The market has been shifting toward customization and personalization,” says Naveet Nagpal of Omi Gems — and with Instagram and Pinterest, brides can easily search for what speaks to them.
Gemstone-focused jewelry designer Erica Courtney concurs. “I think people relish being unique, especially millennials and Gen Z. They don’t necessarily want to break tradition, but want to break away from the norm.” Even the British royals are expressing this break. “Look at Princess Eugenie’s incredible padparadscha engagement ring,” says Courtney. “I mean, who can forget that? That ring will be talked about for years to come.”
Among blue gems, sapphire is unanimously king, and ruby is a top pick as well. That’s partly because, at 9 on the Mohs scale, these two are the hardest gems next to diamond, and therefore ideal for daily wear. Designer Penny Preville affirms that sapphire is number one, though she has also seen “aquamarines, pink tourmalines, rubellites and morganites.”
Tarek Elshaarawi of jeweler Cirari confirms that “morganite is really having a moment.” Indeed, this rosy beryl won’t break the bank, which means brides can splurge on a larger center stone.
Dressing it up Of course, a colored engagement ring differs from a colored-gemstone fashion ring. Engagement rings are generally characterized by classic designs, with one color only and with diamonds to give them substance. If a colored center is surrounded by more colored gems as accents, it becomes a cocktail ring instead.
Classic three-stone rings are a perfect bridal style. Gallery detailing is another option — using smaller diamonds set into claws or shanks that surround a colored stone. Pears, ovals and emerald cuts with diamond halos are also strong, as seen in rings by Cirari and Omi Gems.
The reverse option is also trending: mixing colored-gemstone accents with a diamond-centered ring. A gemstone halo around a diamond is a good way to repeat the traditional style, but with a twist.
Colored-gemstone engagement rings have actually been around for centuries, according to jeweler Harry Kotlar of Los Angeles, California. “It was believed that the ring finger on a woman’s left hand had a special vein running directly to the heart, so when you choose a certain gemstone for your engagement ring, you’re inviting specific energies to enter your life. Sapphire symbolizes honesty and loyalty. Rubies represent love and commitment.”
Many millennials seek such meaning in their jewelry, and it’s easier than ever to fill that demand.
Image: Pink-sapphire and diamond ring by Omi Gems; emerald-cut emerald ring from the Harmonie collection by Harry Kotlar. Article from the Rapaport Magazine - April 2019. To subscribe click here.