Estate jewelers deal in the unique. Every purchase is an adventure. The expert may encounter on any given day a demantoid garnet, a paraiba tourmaline, a natural pearl, a cushion diamond, a Burma ruby or an alexandrite. He must distinguish historic periods such as Georgian, Victorian, Art Nouveau and Art Deco. He must recognize the styles of different jewelry visionaries such as Suzanne Belperron, Verdura, and Jean Schlumberger. He must be a connoisseur of design, craftsmanship and provenance. Above all, he must have nuanced knowledge of niche market values. He must multitask.
“The estate jewelry trade is very challenging today,” says Robert Sadian, owner of European Art & Antiques, one of the world’s leading estate jewelry buyers. “Things are changing faster than they ever have. You must have your radar up all the time in order to adjust to new realities in the marketplace. New forms of merchandising on the internet, and social media tools such as Instagram, are altering the conditions of business at 21st-century speeds. The growing importance of trade shows has also altered the way the market functions. You need a quick reaction if you wish to stay in the game.”
Nonetheless, he continues, “some of the old standards remain. The markets may go up and down, but true beauty and quality are the ultimate value. Estate jewelry will be loved as long as beauty in art is loved.”
Sadian comes from a family of purveyors of antiques and gemstones, who have been practicing their trade for generations. He formed European Art & Antiques in 1994 and was later joined by Mark Emanuel, who brought with him complementary skills such as expertise in recutting diamonds and colored gemstones. Together, they have participated in many storied deals, such as the purchase of the legendary Fred Leighton estate.
“We cover the broadest possible range,” says Sadian. “We will buy anything, from a charming antique miniature for $500, to a gem Burma ruby for $2 million.” Here are a few examples of the wonderful jewels in Sadian’s collection.
Michael Singer has been a dealer, expert and consultant in estate jewelry for over 35 years. He lives and works in New York City.
Image (left to right): Oscar Heyman & Brothers, circa 1970; Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1990; Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1953Article from the Rapaport Magazine - August 2018. To subscribe click here.