What is the theme of your latest collection? Hidden Garden takes inspiration from beautiful flowers that hold a personal and special meaning for me. From the lily that always graced my childhood home, the peony from my wedding bouquet, and the garden flowers I remember so well when I lived in England in my teens, where there were so many open spaces and flowers. The delicate shapes and colors take their form in fine lines of metal and precious gemstones that I have personally selected and treasure. The second chapter has recently been launched with the Wisteria Suite, which are the “hero” pieces, bursting with energy in an explosion of colors and shapes. The inspiration is from the Wisteria gracing London townhouses in the summer, transforming the brickwork into rich spectacles with their cascades of vivid blooms. The flowers represent longevity and grace and are used in feng shui, as they symbolize honor and respect.
What is the main inspiration for your designs?
My jewelry is a reflection of the chapters in my life and my heritage. My inspiration comes from experiences and the places and people that are special to me, and this is shown through my love of color, flowing [and] elegant lines of gemstones, and precious-metal lacework, which has become my signature style. I have a passion for contrasting colors and shapes of gemstones not usually seen together. I love bringing together the contrasting cultures of my Asian background and Western life, interpreted through my jewelry in a modern way.
How would you describe your creative process? I spend time researching each project and creating mood boards for inspiration, so there is a solid foundation to work from. Sometimes it begins with a gemstone or a selection of stones, and at other times, it’s an idea that I have. The initial ideas begin to flow as I draw shapes and forms that are part of the creative process. From here, it’s about refining the ideas and seeing them manifest themselves in the final drawings before the craftsmen take over.
If I am designing for a client, the process often starts with life experiences that are special to them and transforming those experiences into a jewel that is personal and will be treasured.
What role do diamonds play in your pieces? Diamonds can bring life to other gemstones without necessarily taking center stage. The Amaryllis Suite that I designed to celebrate my [brand’s] 10th anniversary paid homage to the diamond, with over 1,500 stones. Each piece was designed to be worn in different ways. The pieces have graced the red carpet, and the ring was sold at auction in Hong Kong.
What are your favorite gemstones? As well as diamonds, I have a passion for colored gemstones. I collect rare gemstones when I find them, and these are often the focus for my masterpieces. I like to use the color combinations of different-shaped stones that are not normally seen together.
Are you working on any masterpieces? I am working on masterpieces for VIP events we are organizing for Asia toward the end of the year. These will focus on the most rare and exquisite gems that I have ever had the pleasure of working with.
Whom do you admire in the jewelry world? JAR is known for pushing the boundaries, and his pieces have the same fresh and exciting allure whether they were created many years ago or recently. As for Glenn Spiro, his pieces celebrate the gemstones. His attention to detail brings the designs to life. And I admire the innovative ways Boghossian works with gemstones and settings.
What do you see as the major trends for the coming year? I think there will be a trend for combinations of bright colors and semi-precious gemstones. Stones will be set in an innovative way, creating a new modern classic look. There has been a trend of bold statement earrings recently, but I anticipate there will be a move toward longer, thinner earrings that are more elegant but still glamorous.
Images (clockwise): Peony Dawn Ring; Fancy Diamond Numerati Ring; Peony Dusk Earrings; Wisteria Blue StudsArticle from the Rapaport Magazine - September 2017. To subscribe click here.