Known for their trendsetting designs, the Italians showcased
exciting creations during the recent About J and Vicenzaoro Choice trade fairs.
CREATURE FEATURES
Fantastical animals are alive and in big demand in fall
jewelry, appearing in many forms from serpents and sea creatures to
mythological beasts and dragons. Inspirations range from traditional Chinese
zodiac figures to exotic fauna. The best examples are bold in size and
one-of-a-kind or limited-edition designs, intricately detailed with diamonds,
colored gemstones, enamel, even micromosaics. These jeweled figures are unique
and eye-catching — aimed at the woman who likes to make an indelible
impression.
Italian designers like playing with the concept of sinuous
constructions, often with steel or titanium cores that allow the piece to wrap
the finger, the wrist or the neck. This jewelry, which takes lots of time to
develop, is deceptively simple in form, resembling openwork spirals or tightly
coiled Slinkies. The design eliminates the sizing factor and women love wearing
these pieces because they are playful and low key and can do double duty for
casual or dress-up occasions.
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Gemstones with translucent, milky colorations are hugely
popular this season, enhancing fashion’s deep jewel tones, as well as its soft
pastels. The advantage is great: There is a huge range of colors to choose
from, the designs are often oversized and bold and the costs of these gemstones
are a lot less than traditional transparent gemstones. Among the most popular
are rose and smoky quartz, lavender and green jade, milky amethyst and
aquamarine, agates of all colors and moonstones.
Many designers opted to play with tonalities of color in the
same piece, mixing several shades of gemstones in a subtle, wearable mix. It’s
a modern version of the classic rainbow design, using either different tones of
the same stone or combining different gemstones of similar color to achieve the
look.
Perfectly in keeping with winter’s layered fashion looks,
fine jewelry has seized on the layering concept, with multistrand and wrapped
designs. The look includes dramatic nested necklaces of diamonds and pearls
that begin at choker length, then proceed to long ropes, as well as rings and
bracelets with gently overlapping pieces, often in varying shades of gold or
with diamond and gemstone accents.
A strong trend embraced by many international designers is
jewelry that combines gemstones in multiple sizes and shapes in the same piece.
It makes for a very dramatic look, yet is easier to achieve than collecting all
gems in exactly the same size and color.
The look was most prevalent in large cocktail rings and pendants but
also was seen in earrings and bracelets. Many designers used the variously
sized gems in the same color; others opted for tonal variations or multicolored
confections.
Delicate as a spider’s web or bold and dramatic, lacy
openwork designs are very strong this season. They cover a wide range of
materials and designs from lighter-than-air beads and discs of laser-cut gold
to tiny wires that are crocheted and woven into star- and snowflake-like
patterns of gold studded with diamonds.
Article from the Rapaport Magazine - October 2012. To subscribe click here.