Rapaport Magazine
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Are You Concerned About Synthetics?

By Phyllis Schiller



Bracelet by Colette features natural diamonds.

The 4Cs are not the only things that make a piece of diamond jewelry a sales winner. In an ongoing series, Rapaport Magazine explores the “3Ws” — what’s selling, what’s not and why — by going straight to the people who really know — jewelry retailers. Each month, we ask a sampling of retailers to comment on the important issues that are facing the industry today. Here is what they had to say when asked: “Do you sell synthetic diamonds? Are you worried that synthetic melee might be slipping into the loose diamonds you buy?”


JIMMY GREEN, PRESIDENT
J. GREEN JEWELERS
SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS
“As far as melee, especially if you’re buying things from overseas, I’ve been told by several different people that a few synthetics are being mixed into small parcels of smaller melee. It’s very difficult to detect. But I’m buying from people I’ve bought from for 20 years, and the company that I do business with is a Belgian company. Not that they can’t be taken in, too, but they’ve been around for a very long time. So I’m not as concerned.

“I don’t sell synthetic diamonds. I’m very aware of them. I’ve taken the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) courses on them, and I have nothing against them. But I just don’t think my customers can get their arms around giving someone they love something that’s synthetic. It’s like saying their love is synthetic. That’s the way I feel. I can’t get excited and say, ‘Hey look, nobody can tell the difference and it is a diamond.’ When somebody buys something out of love, and most of the jewelry business is that way, what are you telling the recipient with a synthetic? Even if they can get twice as big a stone or a beautiful blue stone, or whatever, it doesn’t matter. It’s what you’re implying to that person you’re giving it to.”

RICHARD NEUSTAEDTER, OWNER
NEUSTAEDTER’S FINE JEWELRY
ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI
“We don’t sell synthetics. It’s not our clientele. In terms of our loose diamonds, we haven’t had any problems. Never even thought about it.”

JIM WATTERS, OWNER
BRUCE WATTERS JEWELERS
ST. PETERSBURG, FLORIDA
“Synthetic diamonds are not for our customer. Even when the Gemesis fancy yellows
came out a while back — and the company was close to my location and I even know the
rep — it really wasn’t a huge value. The stones were expensive and everybody I speak to wants the
real deal. The aversion to a synthetic diamond is much stronger than to a treated diamond.

“And I don’t worry about my loose diamonds because I trust the people who are in my supply line that they will be diligent.”

SCOTT RHODES, OWNER           
A. SCOTT RHODES JEWELER
WILMINGTON, NORTH CAROLINA
“Synthetics are not something that we sell. In terms of synthetic melee, I haven’t even thought about that question. It’s an excellent one. And to the extent of where the production is, I would be concerned, absolutely. But I’m confident in my suppliers, although that doesn’t mean they can’t be duped.

“I think it’s an interesting question. When was the last time a melee diamond was cut in this country? I know the melee prices have gone crazy. One thing that always kills me is all the companies who are buying melee are paying $35 a carat and when you go to buy the same thing, it’s $450 a carat.”

ERIC BRANTLEY, GOLDSMITH
TREIN’S JEWELRY, INC.
DIXON, ILLINOIS
“In our store, we don’t sell synthetics, other than Chatham gemstones — and even then,
not very much, and the fact that the stone is lab grown is the first thing that we declare.

“As for loose diamonds, our ‘newest’ supplier is someone we’ve been with for eight and
a half years and our oldest supplier is someone we have been buying from for almost
40 years. And we have two Certified Gemologist Appraisers (CGA) and a certified goldsmith on staff.”

LEE ESKRIDGE, CO-OWNER
LEEBRANT JEWELERS
ATLANTA, GEORGIA
“We do not sell anything synthetic and the diamond people we deal with are suppliers we have dealt with for many years. If I just bought from anybody, then I might have a concern. But we deal with people we’ve bought from for 30-years-plus and so we don’t give it a second thought.

“It’s just like with colored stones. I deal with certain suppliers of colored stones who have the reputation they have and I have bought from them for so many years, it’s not a concern for us what some of the marketplace sees.”

BRIAN TOONE, CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER (CEO)
JEWELRY DESIGN CENTER
SPOKANE, WASHINGTON
“We don’t stock synthetics. Our clients are not interested in them. It’s a pretty conservative market here and even the cluster-type settings that are groupings of diamonds made to look like a bigger diamond don’t sell well here. So far, from what I’ve seen with the pricing of the created diamonds, our clients would rather have a natural; the price has not come to the point yet where it makes it worth buying a grown diamond.

“Am I concerned about synthetics in loose diamonds? The sightholders we buy from are very reputable, so at this point, it hasn’t become an issue. Although I’m keeping very informed as new information comes out through the GIA or the American Gem Society (AGS) or just the local trade publications, to keep privy to things.”

PAUL EMERSON, CEO
EMERSON & FARRAR
REDLANDS, CALIFORNIA
“I don’t sell synthetics. I am worried about synthetic diamonds. I don’t know how we’re going to be able to keep them out of melee. But I’m less worried about synthetics getting into the melee than I am the larger diamonds — above 10 pointers.

“I’m worried about half-carats up. I’m concerned about buying off the street, of
someone coming in with a synthetic diamond and selling it to me as a used diamond.
That’s my biggest worry. If someone comes in with a one-and-a-half-carat diamond in a vintage-looking ring and they are looking to use that stone toward buying a ring in my store, I’m worried that it might be a synthetic. Supply-wise, I sell GIA stones and AGS stones so I’m hoping that the labs are able to keep up with the technology.”

Article from the Rapaport Magazine - October 2012. To subscribe click here.

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